The First Supper
Spanakopita after 413 days of Dinner Party Isolation
“Are you wearing makeup?” my 12-year-old son asks his 18-year-old sister, a note of surprise in his voice.
“Geez, it’s just a little mascara,” she says, as she artfully arranges thin triangular slices of gruyere and Trader Joe’s smoked trout on an Italian ceramic platter to go with the bruschetta she just whipped up.
“Are you two going to go take a shower before our guests arrive?” she quips back.
My neck prickles with the recognition that she is anxious about reuniting with friends she grew up with but only knows now from SnapChat. As usual, I’ve packed everything possible into a springy Sunday afternoon and am still in mountain bike clothes. Right. Guests. I’m not used to this. I pop the Spanakopita into the oven and dash upstairs.
As I comb knots out of my braids, I notice a blue Subaru in the driveway and hustle downstairs. I am relieved (and slightly surprised) that three sets of shoes are in the entryway.
We’ve been trying to reconnect for weeks, but long-haul COVID has affected one of our guests of honor, and often, she can’t get out of bed. One of her daughters is a busy senior in high school with a new job and a lot of math homework, and the other daughter has just pulled in from Salt Lake City, having just finished exams at Westminster College. I’m even more relieved to find everyone vaccinated and maskless, exchanging hugs around the kitchen counter.
When it’s my turn, each hug is long and tight and feels so damn good.
There’s not a second of silence for the next two hours as we reacquaint ourselves and share stories — not of sadness and COVID drama but rather of hope and excitement for graduations, summer jobs and summer camps, new homes, and college acceptances. We caught up on old friends, new romances, and Mexican road trips. Like the first sip of water after a long walk across a hot desert, we reveled in the simple joy of connecting around the dinner table after 413 days in dinner party isolation.
Spanakopita, or Greek Spinach Pie, is a cheesy, crispy crowd-pleaser high in nutrients and protein. If you’re looking for something to satisfy vegetarians, meat-eaters, kids, teens, and grandparents, this is for you. It’s also super flexible and a good way to clean out the frig before your next CSA pick-up — virtually any cheese, green, and herbs can be substituted. Don’t tell the Greeks.
Spanakopita
Makes one 9-by-13-inch pie; Serves 8
Special utensils needed: pastry brush, serrated knife
Ingredients
3–4 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
6 green onions, chopped
3–4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 bags/boxes of frozen spinach, thawed or 2-pounds (32-oz) fresh spinach
2 large eggs
6 oz crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup chopped parsley, OR 1/4 cup chopped basil, mint, dill, or other savory herbs
1/2 cup butter, unsalted, melted
16 sheets of frozen phyllo dough, thawed
Flakey salt and pepper
Procedure
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Step 1: Prepare the spinach. If using thawed frozen spinach, place it in a colander and press out as much water as possible. Once it’s mostly pressed out, press some paper towels on top to soak up the rest of the water. If using fresh spinach, wash, and spin in a salad spinner or dry with a paper towel.
Step 2: In a large Dutch oven or saute pan, heat olive oil over medium heat and saute the garlic and onions until soft, about 5 minutes. If using fresh spinach, add it to the softened onions and stir until wilted. If using frozen spinach, turn off the heat and stir in the dried spinach. Cool slightly then stir in the 2 eggs, feta, Parmesan, parsley or chopped herbs, and season with salt and pepper.
Step 3: Lightly grease your 9-by-13-inch pan with melted butter with your pastry brush. Lay one layer of phyllo dough in the baking dish, letting the excess go up the sides. Using your pastry brush, lightly spread butter on top. Lay another sheet on and repeat 7 (for a total of 8 sheets) times to form the bottom crust. Spoon the spinach mixture over the top and spread evenly. Lay a sheet over the spinach and repeat brushing and stacking until the phyllo is used up. Brush the top piece with butter, ensuring no spots are missed.
Using a serrated knife, lightly score the top layer of dough into squares. This will make it easier to cut when you bake it.
Bake for approximately 50–60 minutes until the crust is uniformly golden, and the filling is bubbly. It will smell really good when it’s done!
Cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. It’s best hot but can also be served at room temperature.